Mt. Amadablam 6,812m (22,334ft) Expedition

Group size:	5-10 persons per Group.	Max-Altitude:	6,812m (22,334ft)
Destination:	Nepal	Fitness level:	4E
Arrival on:	Kathmandu,Nepal	Departure from:	Kathmandu,Nepal
Meals:	All meals
Accommodation:	Hotels in cities, teahouses and camps for trekking and climbing

Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812m (22,349ft), the lower western peak is 6,170m (20,243ft). Ama Dablam means “Mother’s necklace”; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (Ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest base camp.

Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatized to altitude, having wintered over at 5800m near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge (right skyline in the photo). Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche proved that this is not always the case. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April–May (before the monsoon) and September–October.

The normal route to climb mount Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Most of the mountaineering beginners start their climbing through this Mount. Ama Dablam 6812meters, Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak of 6812m lying in the Everest region. This South – West ridge is the normal and most popular route to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition.

This mountain is considered to be the most technical & difficult to climb. The mountaineers have to cross-difficult ice rocks and steep snow climbing one their climbing route. Mountaineers usually have to pitch 3 high camps on the mountain of mount Ama Dablam 6812m.

To reach the first camp from base camp, the climbers have to pass the toughest and the difficult passing through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and through the boulder. We are in Camp one now. From Camp I – one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge via to the fixed lines to Camp II. From Camp II after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to a camp 2.

Ama Dablam ExpeditionThe climbing route from Camp II is mostly with the steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel then finally along the snow ridge go to Camp III, From here to the summit, it is steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the Top of mount Ama Dablam very charming sceneries of Mount Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Island peak, Makalu 8463m , Khumbu Himalayan and rest of the snowcapped surrounded mountains can be envisioned.

Experience Required:

For the Ama Dablam Expedition all climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. We will fix ropes and make use of the existing infrastructure (if any); however, the climbers should possess the necessary skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice without them. We follow the standard Southwest ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safer route with lower objective dangers of avalanches. We begin the approach as usual in the region from Lukla (2860m) and then slowly trek through the Sherpa villages along the trail. We take our time to properly acclimate before we reach base camp and begin the climbing period. Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition pride ourselves in executing this expedition with a focus on quality as well as safety. As always, the package can be flexibly adjusted to your requirements (in case you want some additional acclimatization time beforehand etc.) you can feel free to contact us any time for suggestions and advice. We’d be happy to take you on this adventure of Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition with our great team.

Ama Dablam Expedition Base Camp Services:

• Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the Expedition.
• Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity of the mountain.
• We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the trek to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food in teahouses.
• In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three times delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
• We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients.
• We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
• We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and Internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.

 Ama Dablam Expedition Full Board Additional Services:

• In full board Service we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa on C1, C2 & C3.
• We provide UHF/VHF handheld radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
• We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food and fuel provisions, and assist the client all the way to the summit on this technical climb, where one requires a climbing buddy and a be layer. The climb requires cooperation between teams in setting up fixed ropes. Our camp manager and guides will coordinate work with other teams on the route setting.

Approaches to ABC:

Approach to the Base camp for Ama Dablam Expedition is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla after few hours’ drive from Kathmandu to Manthali airport of Ramechhap and following Everest Base camp trail through Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche. The Base camp is located at 4600m.

Climbing Routes:

• The standard climbing route for Ama Dablam Expedition is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangement of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4600m and High Camp at 5000m as a store camp.
• The high camp is located 150m below the ridge and all other 3 camps are directly on the ridge ensuring a great vantage point for all camps for stunning views.

Why should you choose Mountain Climb for your Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Climb fixed departure expedition 2020

Days	Spring	Autumn	Outlined itinerary	Overnight
1	16-Apr	3-Oct	Arrive Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.	Hotel
2	17-Apr	4-Oct	Kathmandu at leisure/Administrative formalities	Hotel
3	18-Apr	5-Oct	Fly Kathmandu-Lukla (2840m) & trek to Phakding 2630m	Lodge
4	19-Apr	6-Oct	Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar 3445m	Lodge
5	20-Apr	7-Oct	Rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization	Lodge
6	21-Apr	8-Oct	Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche 3867m	Lodge
7	22-Apr	9-Oct	Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 4576m	Camp
8-28	23-Apr to 8-May	10-25 Oct	Ama Dablam Climbing period using 3 camps above BC	Camp
29	9-May	26-Oct	Withdraw Base Camp	Camp
30	10-May	27-Oct	Trek from Base Camp to Tyangboche 3867m	Lodge
31	11-May	28-Oct	Trek from Tyangboche to Monju 2815m	Lodge
32	12-May	29-Oct	Trek from Monju to Lukla 2840m	Lodge
33	13-May	30-Oct	Fly Lukla to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.	Lodge
34	14-May	31-Oct	Rest day at Kathmandu at leisure.	Hotel
35	15-May	1-Nov	Depart Kathmandu.	Hotel

We have noted few probable points related to Ama Dablam Climb expedition whether they could help you further prepare the expedition.

Length of Ama Dablam Climbing

Ama Dablam Expedition total duration is 30 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu), this duration is planned for the overall expedition such including administrative formalities, approach to/from Base Camp, acclimatization at Base camp, and above Base camp for the summit attempt etc….The daily waling /climbing / ascent duration depends on each camp basis, such as during approach to Base camp an average ascent duration is 7-8hrs, whereas the ascent during on the Summit day will be longest of the expedition 9+ hours depending on each climber. The above average duration is just generalized, but the actual climbing duration depends on each climber.

Administrative Formality / Climbing permit

We need to obtain a separate climbing permit for Climbing Mount Ama Dablam through the Ministry of Tourism and as a professional Ama Dablam Expedition organizer company we take every administrative formalities for Clibming  Ama Dablam seriously so that the member / client could enjoy a hassle free Climbing of the mountain. We process the climbing permits 2 months in advance, therefore you are requested to send the relevant documents (please print them, fill up, scan them & send us by e-mail along with a scan passport photograph):

If you are a member of the Ama Dablam Expedition: Member Bio-Data

For Leader of the Ama Dablam Expedition need extra documents: Leader Document Mountain  

Risk & Release for each Ama Dablam Expedition member: Assumption of Risk & Release

Difficulty of Ama Dablam Climbing

This is another major question frequently asked. And the answer to this is rather simple; the difficulty of any mountaineering depends on your previous climbing experience, physical fitness, mental preparedness etc… Ama Dablam Climbing is of course a bit difficult in terms of the technical parts (sometimes to 40-45 degree climbing). There will be fixed ropes on the technical parts, so if you are bit careful about using your personal equipment’s such as you must not forget to cliff on your safety karabiners on fixed lines, step up your crampons carefully etc, the climb is not difficult, but for altitudinal adaptation, though the expedition is well planned in terms of proper acclimatization, at the same time it is important that you must have at least some previous climbing / mountaineering experience and proper use of technical gears such as crampons, jumar, ice-axe etc., also physical exercise by running, long walking, cardio vascular exercises. It is also important that you have general check up with your doctor before coming on the expedition.

At an Emergency

ASIANA NEPAL TREKS & EXPEDITION prides itself on being prepared for any emergency situation during Ama Dablam expedition. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Ama Dablam Climbing / mountaineering. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expeditions..

Food safety & the types of food

Food safety to keep our Ama Dablam expedition members is priority for us; therefore we brief you about the food safety before departure on an expedition. All food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or freshness before dispatch to Lukla and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.

During approach to / from Ama Dablam Base camp you will have your breakfast and dinner at your teahouse. We stop for lunch at one of the various trailside restaurants. And snacks are always easy to find. During your stay at Base Camp our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries too. There will be also various types of snacks such as biscuits, chocolates, nuts etc. also special cakes prepared by our cook with plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc… And for the Full board expedition service food for higher camps above base camp will be various types of light / energy foods such as chocolate bars, dry fruits, biscuits, tea, coffee, sugar, whole meal packed food etc….

Drinking water during Ama Dablam expedition

During approach from Lukla to Ama Dablam Base camp and Back to Lukla all teahouses have boiled water that is quite safe to drink. Your guide will provide you with all the water you need during your trek to Base Camp, though you may also buy bottled water on the trail, but we do not encourage much on this as the plastic bottles are difficult to dispose of and have become an environmental problem. During your stay at Base camp the water source is either from a small stream or snow melting that our cooks boil and 100% safe to drink or cooking. Above Base camp in the mountains the water source is from snow melting which is safe for drinking as well.

Equipment you should bring

Choosing the right equipment is very important especially for climbing. All group climbing equipment’s for Ama Dablam Climbing such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Mountain Climb for full board expedition service, whereas you need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and very cold nights. Detailed information about the personal gear is available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.

Extra money to bring

Without knowing your proper service selection of the expedition either Full Board expedition service, Base camp service or any other services, it is next to impossible to justify the correct amount you would need to bring, but there will be always only little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment etc… Therefore, we advise you on this after your chosen expedition service.

Experience of our guides / staffs

ASIANA NEPAL TREKS & EXPEDITION has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and Ama Dablam Climbing experience with many times to the Summit, so you can be confident in our staffs.

Accommodations & toilet facility

We provide twin sharing hotel accommodation for Ama Dablam Climb expedition climbing members in Kathmandu. During your approach to / from Lukla -Base camp you need to share room with other people as there are no single room facility in lodges. At Base camp you will be provided a single tent with thick mattress and pillow to make your sleep comfortable and at Camp I and above Camps, you need to share tent with another member who will be also warmer. There will be also a separate toilet and shower tent facility at Base Camp.

Environmental Responsibility

Our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the Ama Dablam Climb an Eco-Ama Dablam Expedition. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from Ama Dablam Base Camp and from the mountain as far as possible produced during the expedition. Yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome and enchant your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environment and nature.

Apart from above if you have any further comments or suggestion, please write us: asianadventurenepal@gmail.com

 All Ama Dablam Climb Expedition Material © Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.  

Trip Facts

Ama Dablam Climb

Elevation: 6,856m / 22,494ft.
Climb the world’s most impressive mountain
Coordinates: 86° 52′ 02” E – 27° 51′ 39”N, located in Khumbu Himal, Nepal                        
Duration: 30 days    Grade: 3 (needs good level of physical fitness & at least some technical mountaineering / climbing experience)
First Ascent of Ama Dablam: 13th March, 1961 by Barry Bishop, USA, Mike Gill, NZ, Mike Ward, UK  & Wally Romanes, NZ via the southwest ridge
Starting from: Lukla      Ending at: Lukla